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Owner and Operator of Jóia Food Farm Discusses Food System Reform and Regenerative Agriculture
Despite a growing consumer market for local crops and livestock, the American food system exacerbates devastating agricultural practices that put short-term gains over long-term investments. The few small-to-mid-sized farms that manage to break into organic, regional, or Animal Welfare Approved food production are growing the potential to create a more climate-resilient food system. However, with food production controlled by commodity crops, multinational corporations, and larger, more concentrated farm operations, our food system is becoming less resilient and more vulnerable to global supply chain issues.
At Central Grazing Company, we work within the food system to create more resilient supply chains, equitable distribution models, and ethical and regenerative ways of raising animals. One of our partners in this work is Wendy Johnson, owner, and operator of Jóia Food Farm and a supplier to Central Grazing Company. Wendy shares, “I am a farmer, land steward, grazier, and agricultural entrepreneur. I own and operate Jóia Food Farm, a diverse livestock and organic grain farm located in the heart of Iowa's flat corn and soybean land. Little else is grown here, and it is very clear how extractive corn and soybean production is to the land and rural communities. Rural communities today aren’t thriving — they’re dying. To understand why we have to look at agriculture.”
So, let’s take a look! We spoke with Wendy to learn how organic regional production can transform our food system and mitigate climate change.
Introduce us to Jóia Food Farm.
I started farming to be part of changing agriculture from an extractive industry to a regenerative one. Jóia Food Farm was created to grow and raise nutrient-dense food for people locally and regionally. It was also created to show that different models of agriculture are financially viable and build community, soil health, and ecosystem resilience. We sell meat and eggs directly to local consumers. We also supply local businesses and produce plush sleeping products from our wool, such as pillows, comforters, and mattress toppers.
Jóia Food Farm began in 2015 when I took over a 130-acre farm and learned how to make it organic. I learned how animals on the land are a necessity and serve as the basic building blocks of building resilience. From there, I dedicated myself to returning this land to its perennial state of prairie and riparian trees while grazing and making a viable income.
Our organic cropping system has two to three years of forage between row crops to break pest cycles and add fertility back to the soil. We would graze those two to three years, so some parts of the farm I decided to keep in forage in perpetuity, not tilling it under for organic corn and soybeans — even though that would make more money. But the long-term effects of perennial grazing outweigh the short-term profits because now the land is teeming with grassland birds, insects, pollinators, amphibians, ground-nesting birds, and all sorts of wildlife. The farm is more abundant and rich than the fossil fuels required to grow conventional or organic corn and soybeans. It’s diverse and bursting with life. To me, that is true wealth.
Today, we have one last section of the farm that is transitioning to organic, and we are using small grains—specifically Kernza (a perennial grain crop developed by The Land Institute of Kansas)—to achieve that goal. Kernza can be harvested for grain and grazed in the same year, and it is perennial wheatgrass with the potential of three years’ worth of harvests. Its root systems are massive, mimicking those of prairie roots. It is a perfect crop that fits our rotation to a perennial system and provides real food to people and animals.
How has your farming model created market opportunities for you and others?
I learned early on as a farmer that specialty crops and livestock help drive the markets to you. The commodity system is volatile, and it’s easy to succumb to worldwide issues as a farmer. For example, the war in Ukraine caused soybean and corn prices to skyrocket, increasing fertilizer and fuel prices. This system robs farmers of sovereignty and leaves them with no control. When I transitioned to organic, buyers came to me asking what I wanted for my organic corn and soybeans and offered to pay for transportation.
When I certified my livestock as Animal Welfare Approved, Central Grazing Company came to me to ask if they could purchase our lamb. Despite our infrastructure being built specifically for corn and soybeans, so much energy is underfoot for something different.
What are some of the main changes needed in agriculture and our food system? How is your farm an example of this change in action?
Building a resilient food system requires diversity in farmers and small businesses that are adding value to the food grown in that community. This means we need more affordable land and farming to be more viable as an occupation. The only way to get into farming is generational, which isn’t sustainable.
The disproportionate number of farmers that have inherited the profession means a disproportionate representation of white farm owners. Farming can be an industry that celebrates and supports the diversity required to make food systems resilient. For this to happen, we need more Main Street businesses like bakeries, delis, slow food restaurants, fast food places, juice bars, broth bars, breweries, and locally crafted artisan goods shops. We need more diversified distribution outlets to support more diversified farming models.
Tying food production in with local and regional businesses can also help shorten the supply chain and create opportunities for additional periphery businesses, like processing and value-added facilities and enterprises. The possibilities are endless.
We also have to change how we think about investing in agriculture. Farmers are often pushed by bankers to make payments, but growing regenerative food systems require longer-term investments. Our financial sector's push for short-term gains makes it riskier for farmers who want to produce sustainable food. Everyone, including farmers, in a more diversified and sustainable food system, needs aligned sources of capital for the long term and to see the holistic goals.
What should consumers be asking of producers, and what do you as a producer need consumers to understand?
Ease and efficiency are consumer needs that are never going to go away. People will not suddenly start shopping at farmers' markets in droves. I think the question should be more turned to businesses: How do we send our message to consumers? How are our products mitigating climate change? From packaging to delivery to on-farm practices. How are our products increasing animal welfare? How are our products building resilient communities? How are our products supporting diversity? How are our products supporting diverse ecosystems?
Farmers are innovators and can help drive the consumer narrative if given the opportunity. If we get to the heart of what we see on regenerative farms and share that story, that is worth our investment.
How strong is the local, regional food system where you operate? What is happening around you that could be part of a larger food movement?
The closer we realize that climate change will damage us as a human race, the faster we can begin mitigating and making the changes required to become more resilient. I’m excited and ready to release a wide swath of energy and momentum to fuel broader food system change. Some are top-down, and some are bottom-up, and both approaches are needed. We are at a breaking point, and change is inevitable.
To ensure your lamb cooks evenly, take it out of the fridge 30 minutes before cooking to allow it to come to room temperature.
When cooking lamb, it is important to consider the cut of meat. Fattier cuts of lamb should be roasted long and slow at a low temperature, while leaner cuts of meat should be cooked at a high temperature for the first several minutes and then at a lower temperature the rest of the time. Braising is a popular technique for cooking less-tender cuts of lamb. This involves roasting or simmering the meat with a small amount of liquid in a tightly covered pan. Braising helps break down the meat's connective tissues, resulting in a tender and flavorful dish. For smaller, thinner cuts, such as chops or steaks, a simple marinade followed by a quick cook time on a hot grill will result in flavorful, tender meat.
Your cooking time will vary depending on the size and cut of the lamb. Using a meat thermometer to check for doneness is important, as individual cuts may vary in cooking time. Insert the thermometer into the thickest part of the meat and check the temperature.
Download our full temperature guide for a full rundown of internal temperatures and cook times for different lamb cuts!
“Primal cuts” refers to the first piece of meat to be separated from the carcass of an animal during the butchering process, hence the name. These are generally large sections of the carcass, often referred to as “primals.” The primals are broken down further into secondary and tertiary cuts, or “sub-primal cuts,” which are the cuts you will typically find to purchase by name.
Lamb has five primals: shoulder, breast, rack, loin, and leg. Below, we’ve organized the cuts according to the primals and the various sub-primal cuts they can be broken down into. For each cut, we’ve provided cooking techniques and, when available, recipes in our collection to help you learn how to cook every cut of lamb. You’ll also want to refer to the temperature guide above to cook the meat to your preferred doneness.
Lamb neck is an under-utilized cut of lamb that you can often find relatively cheap, making it an excellent option for lamb lovers on a budget. Lamb neck can be sold in different forms, such as cut into small fillets or diced as "braising lamb." It can also be bought as bone-in lamb neck steaks, which are perfect for long, slow-cooked stews or curries.
Lamb neck contains a little sinew and silver skin that can be trimmed away easily, and it is nicely marbled with a little fat. A fillet of lamb neck is easily suited to feeding about 2-3 people.
Since lamb neck is a muscle, it can be tough if not cooked correctly. A low and slow cook is the safest way to achieve tender meat. As the cut is relatively small, a good 90-minute to two-hour braise will leave you with meat that falls off the bone, resulting in a delicious off-cut that is a great alternative to beef short ribs or lamb shoulder for a dinner party menu.
The shoulder is a heavily exercised muscle, so the stew meat cut from this primal can be tough and chewy. However, it is also highly flavorful, perfect for slow-cooking dishes.
Simmer the lamb stew over low heat so the liquid bubbles gently around the meat to prevent the excess fat from emulsifying and making the finished dish greasy. Check stew meat dishes after about 45 minutes for tenderness, as overcooking stew meat will cause it to fall apart and lose moisture.
Lamb stew meat is versatile and can be used in a variety of dishes. It can be used to make traditional stews, casseroles, and curries.
Lamb shoulder chops, also known as blade chops, are a delicious and versatile cut of meat that comes from the top front leg of the lamb. Lamb shoulder chops are best cooked bone-in, as this helps to tenderize the meat and impart more flavor. The bone-in chops can be cooked quickly or seared, which makes them ideal for a quick meal or BBQ. Lamb shoulder chops absorb marinades well, making the chops more tender and flavorful. Cover the chops with your favorite marinade in a resealable bag and let them marinate for at least an hour before cooking or even overnight.
Alternatively, the bone-in chops can be braised or slow-roasted, which is great for family meals or entertaining guests. While shoulder chops are thinner than other cuts of lamb, they contain a higher level of fat and connective tissue, which, when cooked slowly, melts away, producing a succulent and tender result. Shoulder chops are perfect for braising or slow-roasting, methods that allow the fat to render and the connective tissues to soften. Searing the chops at high heat before slow cooking also allows the exterior to develop a golden crust, adding flavor, texture, and visual appeal.
Denver ribs are a type of spare ribs that come from the lower part of the rib cage. Denver ribs should not be confused with rack of lamb, which comes from the rack primal cut. The ribs in the rack are located at the upper part of the rib cage, and they have a different flavor and texture than Denver ribs.
Denver ribs are separated from the breastbone and then split and usually comprise 7 to 8 riblets A typical rack of Denver ribs weighs between 1 and 1.5 pounds. One of the distinctive characteristics of Denver ribs is that they are prepared by removing fat, gristle, and connective tissue from the meat. This process ensures the meat is leaner and more tender than traditional spare ribs.
When preparing Denver ribs, remove the translucent membrane that is located on the underside of the rack. Use the tip of a knife to lift the membrane, then grab it with a paper towel and peel it off entirely.
One of the best ways to cook Denver ribs is to use slow-cooking techniques, such as roasting, grilling with indirect heat, sous-vide, smoking, or braising. These methods allow the connective tissue and fat in the meat to slowly melt and lubricate the meat, making it more tender and flavorful. Finish the ribs with a fast hit of high heat to create a beautiful crust. You can also cover them with a flavorful sauce. Some popular seasoning and sauce choices for Denver ribs include barbecue sauce, dry rubs, and marinades.
Lamb belly, also called lamb breast, is from the boneless, fatty underside of the lamb and is flavorful and very adaptable. Lamb belly is an often long, flat cut that is best marinated before being roasted. It’s often rubbed with spices or other ingredients before being rolled and tied with twine. As with any fatty cut, it's ideal to cook it low and slow, rendering the fat and leaving meat that falls apart.
Rack of lamb is a popular and delicious cut of meat that includes ribs 6 through 12 and is considered the most tender and mild-tasting part of the lamb. The rack of lamb can be prepared in several ways, including as a crown roast, separated into individual chops, double chops, Frenched, or as a lamb guard of honour.
One of the most common ways to cook a rack of lamb is in the oven using dry heat. This method allows the meat to cook evenly and retain its natural juices, resulting in a flavorful and tender dish. Before cooking, the rack of lamb should be seasoned with salt, pepper, and any other desired seasonings. Some people like to score the fat on top of the rack to allow for better browning and flavor infusion.
Frenched racks of lamb are prepared by having the meat scraped clean off the rib bones, leaving a more prominent and clean presentation. The exposed bones should be wrapped in aluminum foil to prevent burning during cooking. After cooking, let the rack rest for 15 minutes to allow the juices to redistribute.
To make a crown roast, two racks of lamb are tied together to form a circle, with the rib bones pointing upwards and the meat on the inside of the circle. This creates a stunning presentation and makes for an impressive centerpiece for a holiday or special occasion meal. Paper frills, known as manchettes, can be attached to the exposed bones for a traditional touch.
A lamb guard of honour is another impressive presentation that uses two interlinked racks of lamb. The rib ends are often Frenched to make interlacing easier and for a more dramatic effect. The racks are interlocked and tied with kitchen string before roasting.
Lamb rib chops, also known as "lamb lollipops," are a delicious and tender cut of meat that comes from the ribs of the lamb. These chops are sourced by separating the individual chops of each rib bone of a rack. Rib chops are made up of a large, single loin muscle and a slender rib bone. Slicing between the ribs creates a bone-in portion perfect for grilling or pan-searing. For a double chop, two chops are left attached to each other, resulting in a larger, meatier portion.
One of the advantages of lamb rib chops is that they do not have any sinew or connective tissues, which makes them easy to cook and gives them a tender, soft texture. The best method for cooking lamb rib chops is pan-searing, as they are too delicate for grilling. Pan-searing allows you to achieve a crispy exterior while keeping the inside juicy and tender.
Lamb loin roast is a succulent, flavorful, and tender cut of lamb meat obtained from the center of the lamb's back, also known as the "saddle." It is a popular cut of meat that can be cooked in a variety of ways to suit different tastes and preferences.
Lamb loin roast is best prepared using dry heat cooking methods such as roasting, grilling, or broiling. Cook lamb loin with care, as it can dry out easily if overcooked. Other cooking methods for lamb loin roast include brushing the loin with oil and sprinkling it with salt and pepper before grilling or broiling.
The lamb loin can be presented as chops instead of loin roast. Lamb loin chops have a T-shaped bone in the middle, which separates the meat into two sections. They are also sometimes referred to as lamb loin cutlets. The meat in lamb loin chops is often compared to beef in flavor and texture. The meat is tender and juicy, with a mild flavor that pairs well with many different seasonings and sauces.
Lamb loin chops are typically cooked quickly on the grill or in a pan. When cooked quickly, they develop a caramelized crust on the outside and have a pink, juicy center. We recommend cooking the chops to medium-rare or medium, which will allow the meat to retain its tenderness and flavor. To prepare lamb loin chops, start by seasoning them with salt and pepper or any other desired seasonings. Heat up a grill or pan on medium-high heat and add oil to prevent the meat from sticking. Once the grill or pan is hot, add the lamb loin chops and cook for 4-5 minutes per side for medium-rare or 5-6 minutes per side for medium. After cooking, allow the lamb loin chops to rest for a few minutes before serving.
The lamb tenderloin is a very small (about 3 ounces each) but extremely tender piece of meat. It is best cooked rare, as they are such a small, thin, and tender cut. Tenderloins are best lightly seasoned and treated as a thin steak — cooked over high heat for a very short period of time in a pan or on the grill. Drizzle them with a balsamic reduction or other flavorful sauce for a melt-in-your-mouth dish.
Lamb sirloin roast is a tender and flavorful cut. Sirloin is the muscle that connects the loin to the hind leg. Sometimes sold as part of the leg, it can be cooked separately, trussed for a roast, or grilled as a flavorful steak. A lamb sirloin roast can provide a flavorful dinner for two to three people that are relatively simple to prepare. A sirloin roast will often be rubbed in spices and browned in a hot pan before finishing at a lower heat in the oven.
Lamb shank is a meaty cut that comes from the lower part of the lamb leg. It is a flavorful and economical meat cut popular in many Mediterranean cuisines, such as Greek, Italian, French, and Moroccan. The shank has a bone running through the center, which provides a lot of flavors as it cooks.
Lamb shank best responds to a slow-cooking method, such as braising or stewing, to break down connective tissues and become tender and juicy.
Lamb shank may come with a thin, white membrane that can be trimmed away before cooking or left on to melt away during cooking. Brown the meat before slow cooking or braising to add a deeper flavor.
Lamb shank pairs well with warm spices, such as cinnamon and cloves, as well as bold herbs such as rosemary and mint. Mint sauce is a traditional accompaniment for lamb shank because the herb's sharp, clarifying flavor can stand up to the protein's equally sharp flavor profile. Other complementary sauces include bright, kicky salsa verde or chimichurri. When serving lamb shank, it is best to pair it with garnishes that can soak up its flavorful braising liquid, such as mashed potatoes or polenta. Simple preparations of fresh spring veggies like green beans, radishes, snow peas, asparagus, or mushrooms make excellent side dishes.
Osso Bucco (literally “bone with a hole”) references lamb shanks cut into rounds or cross-cut. Osso bucco is also the name of a traditional Italian dish that uses cross-cut shanks.
Traditionally, osso bucco is made with shanks cut into 2-inch-thick pieces and slow-cooked until tender, resulting in a succulent and flavorful dish. The recipe calls for the shanks to be cooked in some combination of wine, stock, and vegetables and then braised in the oven for around three hours, or until fork-tender. Osso bucco is typically served with a starchy side dish, such as risotto, gremolata, or mashed potatoes, to help soak up the flavorful sauce.
Lamb heart is a type of organ meat that is often overlooked but is actually an excellent source of protein and other essential nutrients. Lamb heart is also relatively easy to prepare and cook, making it a great option for those new to cooking with organ meats.
To prepare lamb heart for cooking, trim away as much fat and connective tissue as possible using kitchen scissors or a sharp knife. Once you have trimmed the heart, rinse it under cold water and soak it in a bowl of cold water mixed with a pinch of salt for about an hour. This will help remove excess blood and ensure the heart is clean and ready to cook.
To cook lamb hearts, use a low-fat cooking method like broiling or grilling. Before cooking, you can marinate the heart in your favorite spices and seasonings to add flavor and help tenderize the meat.
Want to prepare these cuts in your kitchen? Get lamb delivered directly to your door with the Central Grazing Lamb Box subscription! With the Lamb Box, you’ll be introduced to new cuts in addition to lamb cuts you know and love so that you can help support our value of nose-to-tail, no-waste meat production. We also have an extensive recipe catalog where you can find seasonal recipes to prepare your lamb box contents. Before each delivery, you’ll receive an email with information and what you can expect in your Lamb Box as well as seasonal recipes customized to each box.
